Guy Cotter is a New Zealand-based IFMGA mountain guide with over 30 years of experience. He trained through the New Zealand Mountain Guides Association (NZMGA) and took over Adventure Consultants in 1996 after founding Mt Aspiring Guides. Cotter has guided on Everest since 1992, summiting five times, and has climbed seven 8,000-meter peaks, all while guiding. His work spans the Seven Summits and includes around ten Mt Vinson expeditions in Antarctica since 1994.
 
Neil Brodie was born in Glasgow, Scotland. He began climbing and mountaineering at 18 and moved to Cluses in the French Alps in 1991. He completed his IFMGA guide training at the French National Guides School in 1999. Neil’s guiding career has been diverse, adapting to seasonal activities, with limited overseas travel early on due to family reasons. Since 2008, he has also been involved in guide training with École Nationale de Ski et d’Alpinisme (ENSA), recently leading a project to train guides in Jordan.
 
Sam Beaugey grew up in Chamonix, France, and has been a professional mountain guide since 1994. He started his career with the Chamonix Guide Company before co-founding the travel agency “Into the White.” Sam’s guiding expertise includes technical climbing on rock, ice, and mixed routes, as well as polar expeditions and trips to northern Canada. He is especially interested in exploring remote and demanding environments.

Victor Saunders came to guiding late in life, transitioning from amateur climber and architect to full-time guide and architectural hobbyist at the age of 46. He now lives in France where he is a member of the Syndicat National des Guides de Montagne (SNGM). While he has done a fair bit of Alpine guiding over the years, his guiding focus has been more about expedition work including climbing and trekking.

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What is your experience guiding in Antarctica?

COTTER: I’ve guided in Antarctica over 15 trips across 30 years – mostly on Mount Vinson, which I’ve done around ten times. I’ve also guided a Ski the Last Degree expedition to the South Pole, a yacht-based ski touring trip on the Antarctic Peninsula with first ascents, and a South Georgia crossing.

BRODIE: I work with White Desert in Queen Maud Land, operating camps at Whichaway Oasis and Echo Camp. At Whichaway, guiding includes trekking, ice-climbing, glacier treks, and zip-lining. At Echo, it’s more alpine-focused with climbs on nunataks requiring short-roping skills. We also accompany clients on flights to the South Pole and an Emperor Penguin colony for safety. I’ve done four Antarctic seasons—two at each camp.

BEAUGEY: My first experience as a guide in Antarctica was in 2009, in Queen Maud Land. Initially, I went for a personal expedition focused on big wall climbing, base jumping, steep skiing, and ski traverse. Since that first trip, I have completed 11 seasons in Antarctica, including several private expeditions. Highlights include a six-week private expedition climbing and skiing 200 km from Mount Drygalski to Novo Runway, and a seven-week trip in the Vinson area, crossing glaciers, climbing unclimbed peaks, and summiting Vinson. The unique Antarctic light, vast solitude, and the contrast of cold air with warm sunlit rock have deeply inspired my climbing experience.

SAUNDERS: I first guided in the Ellsworth range in 2006, climbing Mount Vinson with four clients. Since then, I have guide Vinson about half a dozen times. In 2010 guided several new routes and four previously unclimbed summits around Union Glacier. In 2011, I guided a boat trip to the Peninsula skiing touring minor summits and my last visit there in 2019 included guiding Mounts Sublime and Tryee for the second time. I have never been to the South Pole, nor East Antarctica.

What has attracted you to guide in Antarctica first time, and what made you return?

COTTER: The sheer wilderness of the place is spell binding. I love the intensity of the environment.

BRODIE: I first went to Antarctica for a base-jumping project in the Drygalski mountains, though it didn’t happen due to permit issues. I returned for the steady pay over 6–7 weeks and because, due to health reasons, I can no longer guide on physically demanding alpine terrain. The work in Antarctica is less strenuous.

BEAUGEY: I was initially drawn to Antarctica by the sheer scale and remoteness of the landscape, as well as the opportunity to pursue ambitious climbing and skiing objectives. The continent’s unique combination of beauty, isolation, and challenge continues to inspire me to return season after season. My work in Antarctica primarily involves guiding on granite, which is coarse and often weathered due to extreme temperature variations. The rock formations in Queen Maud Land are reminiscent of those in Namibia or Corsica, featuring many “tafonis” (honeycomb weathering). Peaks, known as nunataks (an Inuit term), rise dramatically from the ice, sometimes over 1,000 meters. The Vinson area offers more classic mountain shapes, still granite but with smoother surfaces.

SAUNDERS: I had heard that the Peninsula is one of the most beautiful guiding locations in the world. I returned multiple times to the Vinson Massif, partly because the operation run by ALE is highly professional and well suited to private guides and guiding outfits. Their system sets the gold standard for operators in remote regions.

GUIDING IN ANTARCTICA

Antarctic storms can be more severe than any storm in the Himalayas. Sam Beaugey

What do you consider as being the main challenges for you, as guide, while in Antarctica?

COTTER: Getting there and back is the main challenge. Transport requirements are at the extreme end of adventure travel. Main challenge is being able to evacuate an injured or unwell person.

BRODIE: The main challenge is isolation. Even with a nearby ice runway, we can’t count on it being usable, so we must be logistically self-sufficient. Forgetting a single item—food, shelter, cooking gear—can have serious consequences. In the 21/22 season, this was worsened by violent storms that made even camp navigation difficult. High winds and snow regularly damaged or buried equipment, and flight delays meant some people waited over a week to be evacuated.

BEAUGEY: The primary challenge is constant weather monitoring to prevent critical situations. Storms in Antarctica can be more severe than anything experienced at 8,000 meters in the Himalayas. In severe conditions, wet snow driven by 85-knot winds can penetrate even the best protective gear, and visibility can drop to zero. Learning to anticipate and respond to these storms remains a continuous process. In addition, climate change has brought longer periods of calm weather, but also increased moisture and heavier snowfall, introducing new avalanche hazards – especially on routes like Vinson. Another significant challenge is navigating crevasse fields, which can form unpredictably due to the immense scale of ice movement.

SAUNDERS: The main challenge from a guiding perspective is probably the cold. Everything is slower, more equipment is needed, technicalities are heightened, and frostbite is an ever-present danger. Altitude is not a big factor; Vinson is similar in physical height to Mont Blanc but with a lower barometric pressure it feels much higher. If guiding Vinson using ALE as the operator, remoteness is less of an issue. In other places (Peninsula for example) the remote location will have has implications for communication (satellites in stationary orbit are not reliable so Iridium based commutators are necessary in addition to radios if in reach of the local operator). There are also implications for rescue, the logistics are likely to be hyper expensive, which in turn impacts insurance costs.

How does Antarctic guiding differ from guiding in the Alps or the greater ranges?

COTTER: Guiding on Vinson is true expedition guiding, similar to being on a remote high altitude peak in the Himalayas, although more remote in event of a mishap. Techniques are based more around acclimatisation and avoiding cold injury to clients.

BRODIE: The actual guiding activity we do is quite similar to that on easy alpine mountaineering ascents and/or seminar-type activities. However, managing the logistical and safety issues in an isolated environment involves responsibilities which are very different.

Consequences of any mishaps are much greater. Victor Saunders

BEAUGEY: While some guiding principles are similar to those used in the Alps or greater ranges, polar guiding requires additional skills. For example, navigating by sun shadows and moving efficiently through sastrugi (wind-formed snow ridges) are essential.

SAUNDERS: There are very big differences between guiding in Antarctica and the Alps. While the skill set is similar, the autonomy is much greater. The consequences of any mishaps are much greater. The emphasis is on the reduction of risk and ability to self-rescue before summit success. Guiding on Vinson is perhaps closer to a more serious version of guiding on Denali.

Do you see a difference in risk assessment or liability when guiding in Antarctica compared to the Alps or Himalayas?

COTTER: At Adventure Consultants we have contracts with clients to cover liability. Risk assessment is on the end of the scale along with 8,000m peaks. Client pre-requisites and preparation is vital, especially in ensuring they have exactly the correct equipment.

BRODIE: If anything the calculations become less complex in that I consider I have an obligation to prevent any and all accidents, although in an environment such as Antarctica, this cannot be guaranteed. I am significantly more risk-averse in Antarctica than in the French Alps.

BEAUGEY: Guiding in Antarctica involves significant liability concerns, especially given the high costs of rescue and evacuation. For example, on my 2019 Vinson expedition, I had to secure additional professional insurance and repatriation coverage, which represented a substantial portion of the total budget.

SAUNDERS: I would think the liability issues are the same as usual for a professional; follow best practice, perform due diligence, and avoid negligence. Risk assessment is likely to be more thorough since the consequences of mishaps tend to be more serious.

What is the client profile you encounter most?

COTTER: Usually a seven Summit climber, sometimes Antarctica is a bucket list item and there are not many ways to get to the interior of Antarctica unless you are on an expedition. Usually in the 45-55 age group.

BRODIE: Most clients are wealthy, with a “bucket-list” mindset and little or no mountaineering experience – the fitness levels vary. Given the high cost, expectations regarding comfort and resources can be high. While early clients were mainly American and Chinese, more Europeans and Russians are now joining.

BEAUGEY: Most Antarctic clients are wealthy, as the cost of expeditions is high. While some are motivated by the desire to “tick boxes,” others are genuinely interested in the landscape and wilderness. The ideal client is wealthy, physically fit, skilled, and has the time for such demanding trips – though this combination is rare.

How do you assess weather and handle emergencies when guiding in Antarctica?

COTTER: I have my staff in New Zealand read the weather maps and send through the forecasts. In case of a medical emergency, evacuation is done through Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions (ALE).

BRODIE: We receive daily weather updates from a professional forecaster at the airstrip and also use Garmin InReach for additional forecasts. Each camp has a well-equipped doctor on-site who also joins longer flights. In serious cases, evacuation to Cape Town is planned — though weather delays are common. For day-trips, guides carry first-aid kits similar to those used in the Alps.

BEAUGEY: I rely on direct observation, especially during good weather, and never trust a single forecast model. Cross-referencing multiple sources and remaining vigilant is essential. Medical support in Antarctica, particularly in the Vinson area, is best organized by Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions (ALE). However, there is a need for greater coordination and improved emergency response among different operators for a non gouvernemental response.

SAUNDERS: There is a good local forecast provided by ALE which is broadcast once a day. The same people also provide a world-wide forecast which is accessible by satellite devices. I used them on the Peninsula and in the Himalaya. In terms of Antarctic forecasts, wind is the primary concern. When it comes to medical emergencies, it’s essential to be prepared for any pre-existing conditions clients might have. In the field, I stay in contact with a specialist expedition medical advisor via satellite. Often, there is also a doctor on the trip. If we’re using the basecamp facilities at Union Glacier, we can rely on the medical post provided by ALE.

What is your approach to environmental protection in Antarctica?

COTTER: We remove all solid human waste, take out everything we bring in, and clean boots and trekking poles before departure. On Mount Vinson, urination is only allowed in designated areas. Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions (ALE) has a strict environmental policy, which we follow closely.

BRODIE: To obtain permits, White Desert follows strict environmental rules, especially around waste. Solid human waste is flown back to Cape Town; liquid waste is disposed of in crevasses. While conditions make perfection difficult, the effort is genuine. The operation’s carbon footprint is undoubtedly high—White Desert claims a zero-carbon policy, though I haven’t examined how that’s achieved.

On Mount Vinson, urination is only allowed in designated areas. Guy Cotter

BEAUGEY: From my first expedition in 2009, I have prioritized minimizing human impact, including carrying out all waste, as required by IAATO guidelines. However, the greatest environmental impact comes from the logistics of travel and fuel transport. Ideally, vehicle use should be limited to camp areas, and air drops should be minimized. I support open exploration but advocate for man-powered travel rather than mechanized transport.

SAUNDERS: While sailing to the Peninsula entails minimal environmental impact, all footwear and clothing are cleaned before leaving South America to avoid bringing contaminants to Antarctica. No solid waste is left behind on the continent. Birds and mammals need to be protected from human contact. Pinnipeds, especially, are liable to canine diseases.

Inland, on the Vinson expeditions, poo containers are carried. All poo is transported out to base camp and eventually off the continent. Pee and cooking waste including wastewater is poured into a common waste hole. On trips away from Vinson to less climbed and unclimbed areas the solid waste is brought back to base and the pee/wastewater holes are kept to a minimum, usually only at the camp sites.

What advice would you give to guides planning their first Antarctic expedition with clients?

SAUNDERS: They should speak to and visit experienced guides as well as the operators. You cannot on-sight guide there.

COTTER: If you’re new to Antarctica, go with an experienced guide first. Without high-altitude experience and solid expedition skills, guiding in the interior can be extremely challenging — it’s more about advanced camping and survival than technical climbing.

BRODIE:

The Role of IFMGA in Antarctic Guiding

How do you see the role of IFMGA-certified guides in Antarctica, where the profession isn’t formally regulated and many guides come from non-traditional backgrounds?

COTTER: I’m aware of non-IFMGA certified guides working in Antarctica. I can‘t think of benefits apart from client management and safety skills for IFMGA guides. I think it is more important to have high altitude and expedition skills and there are a lot of guides in Antarctica working for ALE with no quals but are great expedition guides.

The IFMGA glacier travel skills are relevant, although one needs to learn to know about Antarctic crevassing issues which are very different to what you would find in New Zealand or the Alps. An IFMGA guide is one who is ready to be trained to become an Antarctic guide. I know guides come out of the system thinking they know everything, but it is just the beginning for expedition guiding whether in Antarctica or high Himalayas.

BRODIE: I’m aware of non-IFMGA guides operating in Antarctica, though I’ve never met any. I’ve made it clear to my employer that I’ll only work alongside guides with the same certification level as myself. IFMGA guides bring proven technical expertise and experience in demanding conditions.

The Polar Guide certification, however, is in my view little more than a scam. It brings in annual fees while outsourcing training to tour operators, who gain a pool of inexperienced but ‘certified’ guides willing to work for low pay. There is no standardized selection or assessment process, and no formal certification for avalanche or crevasse rescue—two of the most critical hazards. Even short-roping is included without evidence of the necessary skill level. Modules can be passed without meeting all criteria, at the discretion of the operator.

BEAUGEY: IFMGA guides possess extensive mountaineering and survival skills, but there is much to learn from polar guiding traditions. Collaboration with polar guide associations is more productive than exclusion. While some polar guide certifications may be minimal, the exchange of experience and knowledge is essential. IFMGA training is highly relevant, but should be complemented by polar-specific skills and cooperation.

SAUNDERS: I don’t know any PTGA guides. However, many operators have something of the American about them, using their own list of highly experienced but non certified guides. The Alpine technical skill set is an essential component of the training required for Antarctica. Just as in the Himalayas there are important additions to that set. I would guess most Antarctic (as well as Himalayan guides) have acquired their additional techniques and skills outside the remit of the UIAGM certified courses.

Should IFMGA play a bigger role in Antarctic guiding?

COTTER: I think most guides have an expectation for a high daily pay rate and a mountain guiding company has problems charging clients sufficiently to pay those high rates. Hence you will find most expedition guides are not IFMGA for that reason. However, ship-based expeditions to the Peninsula do often have guides working for specific land based activities such as ski touring so they have an increased presence.

BRODIE: Yes, the IFMGA should play a greater role. Antarctica is largely glaciated with vast guiding potential, and current standards — like those of the Polar Guide Association — are inadequate. The IFMGA should engage with the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators to promote its expertise, while also acknowledging the limitations of its own training in polar environments and offering relevant skill development where needed.

SAUNDERS: One possible action would be to create relevant courses and seminars for Antarctic and polar guiding. The other action would be to maintain conversations with the operators who often use a mixture of certified and non-certified guide staff.

Do you have any particular stories to share?

The dangers are sometimes not where you might expect them. Neil Brodie

BRODIE: One guide who had to get rescued in extremis after getting lost within the camp perimeter. This illustrated to me how dangerous Antarctic storms are and how vital it is to prepare adequately for them. Moreover, two clients who could have died from carbon monoxide poisoning after the exhaust pipe on their tent heater became blocked with snow. The dangers of Antarctica are sometimes not where you might expect them!

BEAUGEY: On my first private guiding expedition, after a five-week climbing trip around Holtanna, we began a ski traverse back to the runway. A storm forced us to shelter in a two-person tent for four days, 45 kilometres from the airfield. Despite challenging conditions-including losing a ski in a crevasse and crossing half-frozen streams-we completed the expedition without a single argument. The experience underscored the importance of preparation and the challenges of guiding in such remote environments.

The Future of Guiding in Antarctica

Do you think there is scope for guiding different objectives than currently are on offer by the five deep field and air operator? Do you see new opportunities or trends in Antarctic guiding?

COTTER: Most activities on Mt Vinson are already well covered, though operators keep adding new products. I think we’ll see more kite skiing in the future.

BRODIE: Guiding opportunities in Antarctica are vast, but independent guides depend on operators due to cost and access. Independent deep field guiding remains limited for now, while tour operators expand their offerings and scale up. Governments may support private tourism ventures.

BEAUGEY: There is potential for new guiding objectives beyond those currently offered by the five main operators. Access by sea along the peninsula is the most feasible in terms of budget, but increased traffic will likely lead to new regulations. Guiding small groups inland remains complex. Antarctic tourism is expected to grow, especially on the peninsula and inland operations.

SAUNDERS: This is an interesting question (meaning I don’t know if there is a good answer). The region is costly to reach by boat, and by air even more so. When not associated with one of the operators, rescue or early termination is problematic. In West Antarctica, the Peninsula and South Georgia may offer possible expeditions outside the remit of the big five operators.

Moreover, over the last decades, there has been further consolidation by big companies. Attitudes have become more conservative, and risk profiles have become tighter. In addition to this the margin from adventure is less than from tourism. In consequence it has become increasingly expensive for technical (and riskier) excursions revealing an inverse relationship between cost and demand for such trips.

How do you reflect on the environmental impact?

COTTER: Guiding in Antarctica comes with a significant environmental footprint. Whether through offsetting or other means, pressure to reduce emissions — especially from travel — will likely increase.

BRODIE: On climate and environment, Antarctica is part of the global picture — visiting there doesn’t cause more emissions than travel elsewhere. As for other environmental issues, particularly the desire to see Antarctica remain ‘pristine’, I think there is an enormous amount of contradiction and hypocrisy compared with what happens in Europe. Tour operators in Antarctica must respect very stringent environmental regulations and the size of the continent is such that it could easily absorb a magnitude worth more tourists without there being a notable environmental impact. Tourism in the Alps, on the other hand has a very wide-ranging and well-documented negative impact on the environment.

BEAUGEY: Climate change is an increasingly important topic in guiding. I have contributed to training for Ponant crew and field guides, and I believe that while IAATO guidelines must be respected, guiding associations should also develop their own standards and best practices.

In Closing: A Guide’s Privilege

BEAUGEY: Guiding in Antarctica is both a privilege and a significant responsibility. It demands a unique combination of technical skill, adaptability, and respect for the environment. As the field evolves, ongoing collaboration and learning-across both mountain and polar guiding traditions-will be essential for the future.